They’re back! They’re in your trees, on your house, in your flowers, and, inevitably, on your face.  They string their webs up and down trees, across rooftops, and even hang down on long strands from tree branches.  They’re known as oak leaf rollers, due to their tendency to “roll” themselves up in leaves, like a worm burrito.
These caterpillars are eating the leaves of live oaks, post oaks, water oaks, and even crepe myrtles, but rest assured, they will not kill your trees.  This insect undergoes only one life cycle each year, so in a couple of weeks they will be forming cocoons, and in June they will begin to emerge as moths.  Once they enclose themselves in cocoons, the leaf-feeding will stop and trees will start to put on new leaves.   Healthy trees can recover from a complete defoliation 3-7 times in one year.  The tree will use energy reserves stored in the roots to make new leaves.
So what can you do about these pests?  I only recommend spraying high-value trees or trees that hang over a patio or walkway, where the webs will be a serious nuisance to people.  The caterpillars are a natural part of the local ecosystem, thus, birds and many other predators probably look forward to each spring and the worm-buffet that comes with it.  While the caterpillars are small (less than 1 inch) I recommend liquid insecticides containing Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), a naturally occurring bacteria that targets only caterpillars and poses no threat to beneficial insects, pets, or humans.  This product is commonly used in organic gardening.  Sprays such as malathion or carbaryl (Sevin) are broad-spectrum insecticides that can potentially kill beneficial insects, but will also work to control the caterpillars.
Insect populations cycle up and down naturally. Next year we may have very few caterpillars, or we may have more than this year. Keep an eye out during the first of April next year to determine if and when you may want to spray.

By Stephen Janak, County Extension Agent – Ag/Natural Resources

COLORADO SPRINGS, Colo. (KKTV) - Starting this week, residents and business owners in Colorado Springs can only water their lawns three times per week.
The ordinance went into effect Jan. 1, 2020. Colorado Springs Utility customers can choose which days they want to water each week. Customers can not water their lawns between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m.
The actual enforcement and fines for not following the new rules won't start until 2021.
There will be exceptions for recently planted vegetation and turf grass on sports fields.
Colorado Springs Utilities will be working on educating the public about the new ordinance through 2020.
The Integrated Water Resource Plan, approved by the Utilities Board in 2017, includes water efficiency as a source of future supply and the proposed ordinance changes are expected to meet 10 percent of the efficiency goal.
The proposed changes align us with other Front Range cities and are considered foundational water practices in Colorado. (re-printed from KKTV article, link below)

https://www.kktv.com/content/news/New-water-restrictions-in-Colorado-Springs-in-2020-566663221.html

Colorado Springs City Code Chapter 7, Article 3, Section 105, A.2.b. Beehives:

2. Any structure or use that complies with the definition of an "accessory use" and the standards described below may be allowed. All accessory structures and uses shall comply with the use limitations applicable in the zoning district in which they are located. Accessory uses and structures include, but are not limited to, the following list of examples. The Manager will determine similar uses which are not listed but meet the definition and standards of an accessory use. This section does not apply to mobile home parks.
a. Antenna: Antennas, i.e., radio, television, CB and satellite dishes are allowed in any residential zone district.
b. Beehive(s):
(1) Properties Less Than Ten Thousand Square Feet: Properties that are less than ten thousand (10,000) square feet in area are permitted a maximum of two (2) beehives.
(2) Properties Between Ten Thousand Square Feet And One Acre: Properties that are between ten thousand (10,000) square feet and one acre in area are permitted a maximum of four (4) beehives.
(3) Properties Greater Than One Acre And Up To Five Acres: Properties that are greater than one acre but not more than five (5) acres in area are permitted the following:
(A) Up to two (2) acres a maximum of five (5) beehives.
(B) Over two (2) acres and up to three (3) acres a maximum of six (6) beehives.
(C) Over three (3) acres and up to four (4) acres a maximum of seven (7) beehives.
(D) Over four (4) acres and up to five (5) acres a maximum of eight (8) beehives.

(4) Properties Greater Than Five Acres: Properties that are greater than five (5) acres in area are permitted an unlimited number of beehives.
(5) Setbacks:
(A) On properties less than ten thousand (10,000) square feet in area, beehives must be a minimum of five feet (5') from the nearest side or rear property line, measured from the nearest point of the hive box to the property line, and may not be located within the front-yard setback.
(B) On properties between ten thousand (10,000) square feet and five (5) acres in area, beehives must be a minimum of fifteen feet (15') from the nearest side or rear property line, measured from the nearest point of the hive box to the property line, and may not be located within the front-yard setback.
(C) On properties that are more than five (5) acres in area, beehives must be a minimum of fifty feet (50') from the nearest property line, measured from the nearest point of the hive box to the property line.

(6) Flyway Barriers:
(A) A flyway barrier shall be installed within five feet (5') of the entrance of all beehives on properties of less than five (5) acres in area. No flyway barrier is required if the beehive(s) is located fifty feet (50') or more from any property line.
(B) A flyway barrier shall be a minimum of six feet (6') in height.
(C) A flyway barrier shall be located no further than five feet (5') from any beehive(s).
(D) A flyway barrier shall be constructed of an opaque fence or fast growing, dense evergreen vegetative material capable of reaching six feet (6') in height at maturity.
​
(7) Fresh Water Supply: A fresh water supply shall be provided within five feet (5') of the beehive(s).

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This information is provided by Colorado Waterwise.

Attributes of good xeriscape education gardens include plant labels, interpretive materials like brochures and plant lists, hydrozoning, ease of public access, and availability of knowledgeable staff to provide interpretation. Feedback from visitors to the garden owners/managers is encouraged.
Plant Select® is another resource for learning about plants that thrive in Colorado, and most are xeric. Plant Select® showcase gardens across the West are listed at their website.

In Colorado, we're fortunate to have a wealth of xeriscape garden examples. Listed below are gardens along the Front Range. If you know of a garden that is not represented here, please contact Colorado Waterwise.


Aurora Water-wise Garden 15151 E. Alameda Pkwy., Aurora, CO 80012

Broomfield Xeriscape Demonstration Garden 1 DesCombes Dr., Broomfield, CO 80020

Colorado Springs: Mesa Xeriscape Demonstration Garden 2855 Mesa Rd., Colorado Springs, CO 80904

Colorado Springs: Cottonwood Creek Park Xeriscape Demonstration Garden 3920 Dublin Blvd., Colorado Springs, CO 80918

Fort Collins Xeriscape Demonstration Garden 300 Laporte Ave., Fort Collins, CO 80521

Fort Collins: The Gardens on Spring Creek 2145 Centre Ave., Fort Collins, CO 80526

Greeley Water Conservation Garden 2503 Reservoir Rd., Greeley, CO 80631 

Loveland Service Center Xeriscape Garden 200 N. Wilson Ave., Loveland, CO 80537

Northern Water Conservation Gardens 220 Water Ave., Berthoud, CO 80513

Thornton: Margaret Carpenter Xeriscape Demonstration Garden 11151 Colorado Blvd., Thornton, CO 80233 

Thornton: Fire Station 5 14051 Colorado Blvd., Thornton, CO 80241

I was interviewed last month about designing green roofs and the green roof ordinance in Denver. This is a link to the finished article in Colorado Patio and Landscape magazine: coloradopatioandlandscape.com/design/sky-high-growth-what-landscapers-need-to-know-about-green-roofs/#.W_9qZS2ZMkg

Our native bees which are our best pollinators are endangered…Colorado wildflower meadows were once frequented by native bees but have now been developed into neighborhoods, shopping areas and the like. Snags where many of these bees nest are systematically removed for safety or aesthetic concerns, and to make way for development. And the few bees that can still manage to survive all this, now face pesticide dangers unless they can find safety in organic gardens. 

Homeowners can help by hosting these helpful pollinators in their yards by giving them “food” and a place to live. Native bees include bumblebees, mason bees and squash bees, mining bees and sweat bees. They pollinate many crops more completely and efficiently than honey bees. Did you know that tomato plants pollinated by bumblebees will have bigger fruits and pumpkins pollinated by squash bees produce larger pumpkins? 

How do you provide them a place to live? That’s pretty easy since 70% of native bees are ground nesters…all they need is a place to tunnel into the ground. The other 30% are wood nesters and need a snag or hollow stem to call home. If you don’t have any natural snags in your yard or nearby, you can drill holes (use multiple sizes, 3/32”-5/16” diameter) on the south sides of fence posts or logs. You can also buy pre-made bee houses with stacked hollow branches (often bamboo).

How do you provide them food? Many of the native bees emerge just as the pollen and nectar from their favorite crops are ready to be gathered. It’s important to have flowers blooming spring through fall, with a diversity of flowers rather than a single type. But plant in groups or masses if possible, not just one plant per type. Gathering the needed pollen, nectar (and sometimes mud) requires endless trips between flowers and the nest, so the closer the flowers are, the less energy the bees need to expend in flight. Native plant species will naturally attract local pollinators, but they are also attracted to vegetables, herbs, annuals and perennials, as well as flowering trees and shrubs. There are many published lists for plants that attract native bees, but here are a few: 
https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/pest-control/plants-to-attract-beneficial-insects-zl0z1005zvau
http://coloradobeekeepers.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/plantlist_foldbrochure_print.pdf
https://honeybeenet.gsfc.nasa.gov/Honeybees/ForageRegion.php?StReg=CO_2
http://conps.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Low-Water-Native-Plants-for-Pollinators-brochure-6-8-15.pdf​

One last note to all of you who may be concerned about getting stung. Native bees are passive by nature and don’t usually sting unless squashed, pinched, or otherwise provoked. Be inspired to create a bee-utiful garden, and you will reap the benefits and help our native bees at the same time!