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Is a microclover lawn right for you?

9/16/2022

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Microclover (also referred to as miniclover) just may be the next big thing in lawn alternatives. Originally produced in the Netherlands and Denmark for use in golf courses, microclover offers homeowners a viable option in low maintenance landscaping. 
What is microclover? Microclover (Trifolium repens var. ‘Pipolina’ or ‘Pirouette’) is a miniature version of the Dutch white clover which was prevalent in household lawns up until the 1950's, when herbicides began targeting broadleaf plants. Its tiny leaves are about one third the size of traditional clover, and it doesn’t clump together, making it look less like a weed and more like the even green lawns people love. ​These types have smaller leaves, fewer flowers, and a lower growth habit compared to Dutch white clover. They also have a less aggressive clump-forming habit.


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White clover often shows up in lawns by way of seed dispersal. All clovers are legumes, which means that through a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobium soil bacteria, legumes are able to transform atmospheric nitrogen gas into an organic form of nitrogen (fertilizer!) that can be used by plants. Clover is a valued component of lawn seed mixtures for its ability to fix nitrogen (thus reduce nitrogen fertilizer applications), enrich the soil, improve lawn growth, and provides food for bees.
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Over-seeding vs. New "lawn" 
Adding microclover to lawns helps control weeds because it helps fill in gaps that often exist in conventional lawn blends. The nitrogen-fixing properties of clovers build nutrients in the soil and feed other grasses in the blend, leading to a thick, dense cover. If you plan to seed microclover into an existing lawn, be sure to mow close to the soil surface and aerate first. This will introduce air, water, and nutrients into the soil and give your seed a better chance of taking hold. Because clover seed is tiny, it passes between blades of grass quite effectively, but it's necessary to sow 25% more seed than you would a bare lawn to account for those that don’t penetrate to the soil level. Apply a bit of topsoil over the seeded area to improve germination rates, rake lightly, and press. The typical sowing rate for adding microclover to an existing lawn is 1.5 pounds for 10,000 square feet.

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When planting a new microclover "lawn", prepare the top 4 to 6 inches of your soil (sandy loam is preferable) by tilling and adding Class 1/weed-free compost. Use lime where necessary to adjust the pH of the soil to 6-7. Rake to ensure an even surface, then use a seed spreader, reserving some seed to fill in any gaps that develop after germination. Water regularly to ensure your soil doesn’t dry out. Fertilize per seed suppliers recommendations. This will give your seeds a chance to germinate and avoid giving the weeds a head start. The typical sowing rate for a new microclover "lawn" is 1 to 2 pounds for 1,000 square feet.


​Coated or uncoated seed

Microclover seed is available as coated and uncoated seed. Coated seeds contain the essential bacteria that clover needs to effectively fix nitrogen. In many cases, these bacteria are already present in the soil and coated seed isn’t necessary, but if your soil is sterile, has never grown nitrogen-fixing plants before, or you just want to give your clover a jumpstart, consider using seed coated with the bacteria known as Rhizobium leguminosarum biovar. Trifoli. The coating also helps the handling and seeding process much easier.

Weed Control
If undesirable weeds appear, do NOT treat with any broadleaf herbicides as these will kill microclover. Instead, prevent weeds from colonizing your lawn by starting with clean, amended soil with the correct pH. Obtain a soil analysis test  from CSU (https://agsci.colostate.edu/soiltestinglab/) before planting.  If weeds appear, they MUST be pulled by hand!

Other Considerations
•The recommended planting time is 4-6 weeks before your average first frost date in Fall, or as early as two weeks before your last frost date in Spring. Microclover prefers cooler temperatures for germination and growth, so spring and fall are the best time to plant.
​•Microclover is cold hardy, and grows well in zones 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.
•Microclover needs 4 to 6 hours of sunlight every day...too much shade will cause microclover lawns to struggle. 
•Microclover is fairly drought tolerant, requiring about 25% less water than conventional lawns to stay green. When first planted, water daily to keep soil moist, speed germination and help establish a strong root system. Once seedlings appear after about 2 weeks, watering can be reduced to every 2-3 days. Once fully established, water deeply (cycle and soak method) as microclover has deep roots which helps with its drought tolerant qualities. 
•You can walk on microclover after it’s established, and has a good root system developed. Microclover is more tolerant of light foot traffic than many other lawn alternatives. 
•Mowing microclover is important because it encourages the plants to keep their characteristic tight, miniature habit. Once you achieve the size and look you’re going for, you can reduce mowing to as little as once per month—or mow weekly for more compact growth and to control blossoming.
•Microclover will stay green from spring through fall, but in Colorado winters, it will go dormant and turn brown.
•Bees are attracted to the flowers which may be undesirable for people with bee sting allergies. Microclover can be mowed to remove the flowers.

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Lawn Rennovation

9/15/2022

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by A.J. Koski and C. Wilson from CSU Extension (https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/renovating-the-home-lawn-7-241/)
Quick Facts…
  • Lawns that are thin from drought, pests or increasing shade may benefit from renovation.
  • Take advantage of total lawn renovation to introduce a species or variety that gives better drought resistance and water use efficiency, increased pest resistance, and better lawn appearance.
  • Only certain grass (and clover) types are compatible for overseeding existing lawns.
  • Newly seeded areas require different care than established lawns.
What is lawn renovation? Total Lawn renovation involves killing existing turf and replacing it with new grass without tilling or changing the grade which is normally done during the establishment of a new lawn. Partial lawn renovation may also include the items listed below.
  • Introduce a new or improved variety of the same turfgrass species into an existing lawn. For example, seeding a new bluegrass variety into an existing bluegrass lawn.
  • Introduce a similar-looking species into an existing lawn such as perennial ryegrass in a bluegrass lawn.
  • Introduce a variety of clover for added nitrogen-fixing and drought tolerance.
Why renovate a lawn?
You may want to consider renovating a home lawn if:
  • the lawn species or variety is frequently attacked by disease or insects and it has caused the lawn to thin out,
  • the landscape has become increasingly shady over time and the original lawn is thin and unhealthy,
  • the lawn was severely injured or totally killed by disease, insects, or drought, or if it was winterkilled, or if you want to completely convert from one turf species to another.
  • More drought tolerance is needed.
When is the best time to renovate a lawn?
The timing for lawn renovation varies according to grass type and elevation of the site. For the most success, follow the guidelines below.
  • Seed cool-season grasses (bluegrass, ryegrass, fescues) anytime from March through September. Along the Front Range and Western Slope the optimal time is mid-August to mid-September.
  • Seed warm-season grasses (buffalograss, blue grama) April through July. Seeding after July is not recommended.
  • At high elevations (greater than 7,000 feet) do not use warm-season grasses. Cool-season grasses can be seeded in the spring, as soon as temperatures begin to warm.
  • Seeding after the first fall frost is not recommended, as young seedlings may be winterkilled. It is better to wait until the following spring to practice lawn renovation.
How to Renovate a LawnFollow these steps to renovate a lawn
  1. Kill existing grass and weeds. 
  2. Resume watering for 10 days. Kill any areas or weeds that are still green.
  3. When the existing vegetation is dead, mow the site to 1/2 inch and remove the debris by hand raking or using the bagging unit on your lawn mower.
  4. If there is an existing thatch layer (a matted layer of organic matter on the soil surface) thicker than 1 inch, remove it from the lawn (a sod cutter makes thatch removal easier).
  5. A thatch layer less than 1 inch is okay, but the soil must be exposed.• Core cultivating provides an excellent seed germination environment. Holes should be 1 to 3 inches deep and 2 inches apart in all directions.• A power rake, set deep enough to expose the soil, can also be run over the lawn in two different directions. Remove loose debris by raking or using a bagging unit attached to your lawn mower.
  6. Spread seed on exposed soil to allow for good seed to soil contact.
  7. Seed at the label’s recommended rate with a drop spreader in two different directions. Follow with a light raking to work the seed into the soil. Adding topsoil or sand after seeding is NOT recommended.
How to Care for New SeedNewly seeded areas require different care than established lawns. Follow the recommendations below.
  • Apply starter fertilizer at the rate recommended on the label.
  • Irrigate the area should to maintain a consistently moist (but not saturated) soil.
  • Check moisture levels in the underlying soil to prevent excessive irrigation.
  • Grass will germinate and grow more vigorously in aerification holes or slits made by the power rake.
  • Begin mowing the lawn when it has grown to about 2 1/2 inches.
  • Keep traffic, including children and pets, off of the lawn as much as possible, until the lawn has been mowed a few times and the new grass begins to mature.
Things to AvoidSome practices result in little benefit for the time and effort required.
  • Don’t scatter seed on an unprepared lawn surface. Poor soil preparation is one of the chief reasons for seeding to fail.
  • Don’t buy cheap (low quality, weedy) seed.
  • Don’t use preemergent herbicides before, during or after the renovation process. It’s best to wait one year before doing this.
  • Don’t spray herbicides for the control of visible weeds on the new lawn until it is mowed five to six times. Do not use herbicides at all if clover has been seeded.
  • Don’t over-fertilize to make the new lawn grow faster.
  • Don’t let new grass get too tall before mowing. Begin mowing when it reaches 2 1/2 to 3 inches tall and mow it to a height of 2 to 3 inches.
Types of Seed
  • If the old lawn grass is still alive, the overseeded grass can be somewhat similar in appearance to the existing species, or clover an be mixed in. Microclover will blend in better than Dutch clover as it's leaf size is smaller.
    • Seeding ryegrass into bluegrass is okay.
    • Seeding fine fescue into bluegrass is okay.
    • Don’t seed tall fescue into bluegrass.
    • Don’t seed buffalograss into bluegrass, ryegrass or tall fescue.
    • Don’t seed bluegrass, tall fescue or ryegrass into buffalograss.
  • When the old lawn dies, use the best adapted grass for the situation. Contact your local Colorado State University Extension county office for advice on species and variety selection.
  • Purchase seed that shows 0 percent weed seed on the label.
How Much Seed to UseToo much or too little seed produces inferior results. Grass species should be seeded at the following rates:
  • Kentucky bluegrass: 3 to 4 pounds/1,000 square feet
  • Perennial ryegrass: 7 pounds/1,000 square feet
  • Turf-type tall fescue: 7 pounds/1,000 square feet
  • Fine fescues: 5 pounds/1,000 square feet
  • Buffalograss: 3 to 5 pounds/1,000 square feet
  • Miniclover®: 1 to 2 pounds/1,000 square feet
Sod vs. SeedSod is best used to establish new lawns, but it can be used for renovation if existing vegetation is removed and the underlying soil is tilled or core cultivated (aerified). Successful sodding requires good soil to sod contact, which promotes better sod rooting.
  • Do not lay sod on an existing lawn or where there is a thatch layer.
  • Sod should not be laid on heavily-compacted soil.
Lawn Renovation Checklist
  • Decide if the lawn requires total renovation (killing/solarizing) or only overseeding.
  • Determine what species and varieties will be used.
  • If a thatch layer is not a problem, mow dead lawn vegetation to 1/2 to 3/4 inch and remove all loose vegetation.
  • If a thick thatch layer (thicker than 1 inch) is present, remove with a sod cutter.
  • Aerate the lawn heavily, so the holes are approximately 2 inches apart and 1 to 3 inches deep; OR run a power rake over the lawn in at least two different directions to expose the soil for seeding.
  • Use a drop seeder to apply seed at the recommended rate. Spread seed in two different directions.
  • Lightly rake the seeded surface, or run over the lawn with a power rake.
  • Apply a starter fertilizer at the recommended rate.
  • Irrigate to keep the soil surface consistently moist, but not saturated.
  • Keep traffic to a minimum.
  • Avoid using herbicides after the lawn is seeded and until it has been mowed five to six times. Do not use herbicides at all if overseeded with any type of clover.
  • Begin mowing the new lawn as soon as the grass has grown to 2 to 3 inches.


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    Kristin Heggem is passionate about landscape design, architecture, and travel.

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