Colorado Springs City Code Chapter 7, Article 3, Section 105, A.2.b. Beehives:

2. Any structure or use that complies with the definition of an "accessory use" and the standards described below may be allowed. All accessory structures and uses shall comply with the use limitations applicable in the zoning district in which they are located. Accessory uses and structures include, but are not limited to, the following list of examples. The Manager will determine similar uses which are not listed but meet the definition and standards of an accessory use. This section does not apply to mobile home parks.
a. Antenna: Antennas, i.e., radio, television, CB and satellite dishes are allowed in any residential zone district.
b. Beehive(s):
(1) Properties Less Than Ten Thousand Square Feet: Properties that are less than ten thousand (10,000) square feet in area are permitted a maximum of two (2) beehives.
(2) Properties Between Ten Thousand Square Feet And One Acre: Properties that are between ten thousand (10,000) square feet and one acre in area are permitted a maximum of four (4) beehives.
(3) Properties Greater Than One Acre And Up To Five Acres: Properties that are greater than one acre but not more than five (5) acres in area are permitted the following:
(A) Up to two (2) acres a maximum of five (5) beehives.
(B) Over two (2) acres and up to three (3) acres a maximum of six (6) beehives.
(C) Over three (3) acres and up to four (4) acres a maximum of seven (7) beehives.
(D) Over four (4) acres and up to five (5) acres a maximum of eight (8) beehives.

(4) Properties Greater Than Five Acres: Properties that are greater than five (5) acres in area are permitted an unlimited number of beehives.
(5) Setbacks:
(A) On properties less than ten thousand (10,000) square feet in area, beehives must be a minimum of five feet (5') from the nearest side or rear property line, measured from the nearest point of the hive box to the property line, and may not be located within the front-yard setback.
(B) On properties between ten thousand (10,000) square feet and five (5) acres in area, beehives must be a minimum of fifteen feet (15') from the nearest side or rear property line, measured from the nearest point of the hive box to the property line, and may not be located within the front-yard setback.
(C) On properties that are more than five (5) acres in area, beehives must be a minimum of fifty feet (50') from the nearest property line, measured from the nearest point of the hive box to the property line.

(6) Flyway Barriers:
(A) A flyway barrier shall be installed within five feet (5') of the entrance of all beehives on properties of less than five (5) acres in area. No flyway barrier is required if the beehive(s) is located fifty feet (50') or more from any property line.
(B) A flyway barrier shall be a minimum of six feet (6') in height.
(C) A flyway barrier shall be located no further than five feet (5') from any beehive(s).
(D) A flyway barrier shall be constructed of an opaque fence or fast growing, dense evergreen vegetative material capable of reaching six feet (6') in height at maturity.
​
(7) Fresh Water Supply: A fresh water supply shall be provided within five feet (5') of the beehive(s).

​

This information is provided by Colorado Waterwise.

Attributes of good xeriscape education gardens include plant labels, interpretive materials like brochures and plant lists, hydrozoning, ease of public access, and availability of knowledgeable staff to provide interpretation. Feedback from visitors to the garden owners/managers is encouraged.
Plant Select® is another resource for learning about plants that thrive in Colorado, and most are xeric. Plant Select® showcase gardens across the West are listed at their website.

In Colorado, we're fortunate to have a wealth of xeriscape garden examples. Listed below are gardens along the Front Range. If you know of a garden that is not represented here, please contact Colorado Waterwise.


Aurora Water-wise Garden 15151 E. Alameda Pkwy., Aurora, CO 80012

Broomfield Xeriscape Demonstration Garden 1 DesCombes Dr., Broomfield, CO 80020

Colorado Springs: Mesa Xeriscape Demonstration Garden 2855 Mesa Rd., Colorado Springs, CO 80904

Colorado Springs: Cottonwood Creek Park Xeriscape Demonstration Garden 3920 Dublin Blvd., Colorado Springs, CO 80918

Fort Collins Xeriscape Demonstration Garden 300 Laporte Ave., Fort Collins, CO 80521

Fort Collins: The Gardens on Spring Creek 2145 Centre Ave., Fort Collins, CO 80526

Greeley Water Conservation Garden 2503 Reservoir Rd., Greeley, CO 80631 

Loveland Service Center Xeriscape Garden 200 N. Wilson Ave., Loveland, CO 80537

Northern Water Conservation Gardens 220 Water Ave., Berthoud, CO 80513

Thornton: Margaret Carpenter Xeriscape Demonstration Garden 11151 Colorado Blvd., Thornton, CO 80233 

Thornton: Fire Station 5 14051 Colorado Blvd., Thornton, CO 80241

I was interviewed last month about designing green roofs and the green roof ordinance in Denver. This is a link to the finished article in Colorado Patio and Landscape magazine: coloradopatioandlandscape.com/design/sky-high-growth-what-landscapers-need-to-know-about-green-roofs/#.W_9qZS2ZMkg

Our native bees which are our best pollinators are endangered…Colorado wildflower meadows were once frequented by native bees but have now been developed into neighborhoods, shopping areas and the like. Snags where many of these bees nest are systematically removed for safety or aesthetic concerns, and to make way for development. And the few bees that can still manage to survive all this, now face pesticide dangers unless they can find safety in organic gardens. 

Homeowners can help by hosting these helpful pollinators in their yards by giving them “food” and a place to live. Native bees include bumblebees, mason bees and squash bees, mining bees and sweat bees. They pollinate many crops more completely and efficiently than honey bees. Did you know that tomato plants pollinated by bumblebees will have bigger fruits and pumpkins pollinated by squash bees produce larger pumpkins? 

How do you provide them a place to live? That’s pretty easy since 70% of native bees are ground nesters…all they need is a place to tunnel into the ground. The other 30% are wood nesters and need a snag or hollow stem to call home. If you don’t have any natural snags in your yard or nearby, you can drill holes (use multiple sizes, 3/32”-5/16” diameter) on the south sides of fence posts or logs. You can also buy pre-made bee houses with stacked hollow branches (often bamboo).

How do you provide them food? Many of the native bees emerge just as the pollen and nectar from their favorite crops are ready to be gathered. It’s important to have flowers blooming spring through fall, with a diversity of flowers rather than a single type. But plant in groups or masses if possible, not just one plant per type. Gathering the needed pollen, nectar (and sometimes mud) requires endless trips between flowers and the nest, so the closer the flowers are, the less energy the bees need to expend in flight. Native plant species will naturally attract local pollinators, but they are also attracted to vegetables, herbs, annuals and perennials, as well as flowering trees and shrubs. There are many published lists for plants that attract native bees, but here are a few: 
https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/pest-control/plants-to-attract-beneficial-insects-zl0z1005zvau
http://coloradobeekeepers.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/plantlist_foldbrochure_print.pdf
https://honeybeenet.gsfc.nasa.gov/Honeybees/ForageRegion.php?StReg=CO_2
http://conps.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Low-Water-Native-Plants-for-Pollinators-brochure-6-8-15.pdf​

One last note to all of you who may be concerned about getting stung. Native bees are passive by nature and don’t usually sting unless squashed, pinched, or otherwise provoked. Be inspired to create a bee-utiful garden, and you will reap the benefits and help our native bees at the same time!

Taken from the 9/6/18 article by Andrew Wright (https://dirt.asla.org/2018/09/06/asla-launches-guide-to-climate-change-mitigation/)
Global climate change is the defining environmental issue of our time. From devastating wildfires to historic storms and rising seas, the effects are already being felt and will continue to get worse. According to NASA, sea levels could rise anywhere from 8 inches to 6.5 feet by 2100. Additional impacts include increased spread of diseases; extensive species extinction; mass human, animal, and plant migrations; and resource wars over dwindling food and water supplies. Furthermore, these impacts will disproportionately affect the world’s poorest and most vulnerable communities.
Sustained, meaningful commitments and actions to substantially reduce greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions from all sectors of our economy can help avoid the worst of these negative impacts. The benefits of these actions will be measured in lives saved and communities spared.
In 2015, the international community gathered in Paris, France, and agreed to a landmark cooperative framework for limiting global temperature rise to “well below” 2 degrees Celsius above pre-industrial levels. In order to meet this goal, GHG emissions will need to peak by 2020 and fall to zero by 2050. This is an immense goal, but also achievable.
Landscape architects are helping to shift us to a carbon neutral future. Landscape architects plan and design dense, walkable communities that reduce emissions from transportation and sprawl. They make the built environment more energy and carbon efficient with strategies like green roofs, water-efficient design, and use of sustainable materials and construction practices. They defend and expand carbon-sequestering landscapes such as forests, wetlands, and grasslands, helping to drawdown atmospheric carbon dioxide. All of these efforts also enable communities to better adapt to climate change and improve their resilience.
The threats posed by climate change are immense, and there is no single strategy that will solve the climate crisis on its own. Instead, mitigation requires an “all hands on deck” approach as we seek to reduce GHG emissions wherever possible. Achieving a carbon neutral future will only come about through the cumulative effect of countless individual actions. Every one of those individual actions counts.
Global climate change is the defining environmental issue of our time. From devastating wildfires to historic storms and rising seas, the effects are already being felt and will continue to get worse. According to NASA, sea levels could rise anywhere from 8 inches to 6.5 feet by 2100. Additional impacts include increased spread of diseases; extensive species extinction; mass human, animal, and plant migrations; and resource wars over dwindling food and water supplies. Furthermore, these impacts will disproportionately affect the world’s poorest and most vulnerable communities.
Sustained, meaningful commitments and actions to substantially reduce greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions from all sectors of our economy can help avoid the worst of these negative impacts. The benefits of these actions will be measured in lives saved and communities spared.
In 2015, the international community gathered in Paris, France, and agreed to a landmark cooperative framework for limiting global temperature rise to “well below” 2 degrees Celsius above pre-industrial levels. In order to meet this goal, GHG emissions will need to peak by 2020 and fall to zero by 2050. This is an immense goal, but also achievable.
Landscape architects are helping to shift us to a carbon neutral future. Landscape architects plan and design dense, walkable communities that reduce emissions from transportation and sprawl. They make the built environment more energy and carbon efficient with strategies like green roofs, water-efficient design, and use of sustainable materials and construction practices. They defend and expand carbon-sequestering landscapes such as forests, wetlands, and grasslands, helping to drawdown atmospheric carbon dioxide. All of these efforts also enable communities to better adapt to climate change and improve their resilience.
The threats posed by climate change are immense, and there is no single strategy that will solve the climate crisis on its own. Instead, mitigation requires an “all hands on deck” approach as we seek to reduce GHG emissions wherever possible. Achieving a carbon neutral future will only come about through the cumulative effect of countless individual actions. Every one of those individual actions counts.

Reprinted from The Humane Society, Janet Snyder/The HSUS

When your backyard buffet draws hooved wildlife
Deer conflicts in the garden can be easily avoided or minimized thanks to a variety of readily available solutions. There may not be a perfect answer, but we do have a good toolbox for you to work with. 
Tolerance is a good thingTolerance is needed when figuring out the best solution for your particular deer problems. Some damage is bound to happen where there are deer, but you can minimize the damage. Under mild browsing conditions, a good repellent may be all that's needed. Under heavy browsing conditions, you may need to limit your plants to the more deer-resistant varieties and use deer-proof fencing around your garden.
Adjust what you plantTake a look at is what is attracting the deer and where it is planted. Replace hard-hit flowers and other plants with more deer-resistant species. There are many deer-resistant annual and perennial flowers, ornamentals, and tree species to choose from. 
A deer's taste buds vary geographically and seasonally, and are affected by what alternative plants are available. Your local Cooperative Extension Service office can be an excellent source of information on what types of flowers and ornamentals deer usually avoid in your area. Deerfriendly.org gives state-by-state web links for this information. 
Good fences make good deer neighborsWhere deer browsing is a serious problem, the only completely effective way to protect crops or plants is with fencing. However, when deer are really hungry, they will jump fences up to eight feet high (some say even higher).
Where deer browsing is a serious problem, the only completely effective way to protect crops or plants is with fencing.
There are a variety of fencing options ranging from 8-foot woven wire fencing to electric fence garden kits to poly-tape (electrified nylon) fences, which are portable and good for more temporary use. The best type depends on how large an area you need to protect and for how long, so check with your local garden store or local Cooperative Extension agents before buying anything. The eight-foot-high woven wire fence stands out as the most effective deer barrier, and it lasts 20-plus years.
Electric fencesElectric fences can work very well for deterring deer, yet these provide more of a "psychological barrier" than a physical one. (Deer can jump over them, but the use of electric shock teaches deer to stay away.) They can be constructed in a variety of configurations (such as baited; single strand; 5, 7, or 9 wires pitched either horizontally or vertically) and are powered by high-voltage, low-amperage chargers that provide timed pulses of short duration.
To ensure that deer learn their lesson, some electric fences have a scented bait attachment which entices the deer to make contact with the fence—after which they receive a mild jolt to their nose or tongue. Aluminum foil squares containing a dab of peanut butter can provide the same "enhancement" when folded over single or multi-strand electric fences. 
Electric fences must be maintained with regular voltage checks and mowing so that overgrowth doesn't short out the lower wires.
Netting, chicken wire, and hardware cloth (wire mesh)"Buck rubs" are the damage caused by bucks rubbing against trees to remove the velvet from their antlers. Prevent buck rubs by wrapping trees with any commercial product sold for that purpose, or by placing cylinders of hardware cloth or corrugated plastic sleeves around the trunks.
To prevent browsing on young saplings, use small-scale, temporary fencing enclosures or individual tree "shelters" (plastic or hardware cloth cylinders) until they reach a height of four to five feet.
You can drape mesh netting over low-growing plants or vegetables that are likely to get eaten, or encapsulate them with protective netting, chicken wire, or hardware cloth. We have received reports of birds getting caught in the netting, so use it with caution or consider using hardware cloth instead. 
Repellents. A variety of repellent products, used singly or—better yet—in combination, can create a very effective multi-sensory deterrent to repel deer. Commercial repellents work by creating unpleasant tastes or odors, gastrointestinal discomfort, or a sense of pain (hot pepper or peppermint) when the active ingredient comes in contact with the eyes, nose, or mucous membranes.
Some of the more effective repellents contain a sulphurous odor (e.g., rotten eggs), believed to induce fear by giving off smells that deer associate with rotten meat or a predator. Some examples of popular repellents include Liquid Fence, Bobbex, and Deer Away® Big Game Repellent. Liquid Fence and Deer Away Big Game Repellent score consistently high in studies assessing repellent effectiveness. 
A variety of repellents is stocked at your local garden, farm supply, or hardware store. Ask which particular repellent seems to work best in your area. 
Tips for applying repellents

• All repellents work best if applied before the deer's feeding pattern becomes established. Apply repellents before bud-break and as new growth appears, to prevent a browsing habit from forming.
• Reapply repellents after heavy rains and at least every two to three weeks.
• Deer may become accustomed to the same repellent, so alternate repellents to keep the deer confused and more wary. At the height of growing season, use an odor repellent over a taste-based one. Taste-based repellents need to be constantly applied to any new growth to keep the whole plant tasting bad.
• Hang bars of soap that are high in fatty acid (e.g., Irish Spring brand) on trees or shrubs you want to protect. With any strategy, moving things around and switching types of products will help keep deer on their toes and make them wary.
• Predator urines make big promises but have scored poorly in studies. The source of predator urine products are fur farms, which raise wild animals for their pelts. The animals suffer from terrible, cramped conditions and die extremely inhumane deaths. For this reason alone, predator urine products should never be used.

Scare devicesThe key to using scare devices is to couple them with other strategies (repellents, for example), to vary the kind used, and to change their location in the yard or garden.

• The Scarecrow Motion-Activated Sprinkler attaches to a garden hose. When a deer comes into its adjustable, motion-detecting range, a sharp burst of water is sprayed at the animal. The combination of physical sensation and a startle effect provide effective aversive conditioning.
• The Havahart Spray-Away Elite Motion Detector is similar in action to the Scarecrow, yet is hose-free and solar powered. This device uses infra-red technology to detect animal movement
• The Havahart 5250 Electronic Deer Repellent consists of 3 stake-like devices and a scent lure. Deer are attracted to the lure and then receive a mild electric shock when they reach it.
• The Deer Shield Electronic Deer Guard is a device which emits varied digital recordings of alarmed and territorial deer, thereby using their own form of communication to inspire deer to go elsewhere.

A final word...Deer are curious and motivated by their need to eat, so they may test and retest the barriers and deterrents you use. You can stay a step ahead of them by changing what you apply so they don't get accustomed to any one strategy. With a little ingenuity and diligence, you will find it really is possible to live in deer country—and have your flowers and vegetables too.

Reprinted from The Humane Society

Too many turkeys in your yard or garden? Find easy, effective, and humane ways to move them along

• Did you know? The turkey’s head and facial “wattles” can change colors (red, pink, blue, white) depending on the turkey’s mood. 

Once a rare sight, these days it’s not uncommon to see a flock of wild turkeys in residential neighborhoods. Drawn into urban and suburban areas looking for food and mates, wild turkeys are loved by some but may be a nuisance or source of fear for others.
The fear of getting diseases from turkey droppings has been used as an excuse to kill wild turkeys, but killing nuisance turkeys is cruel and doesn't solve the problem (more turkeys will just take their place). Try these effective, non-lethal ways to get rid of unwanted wild turkeys.

Five ways to solve a wild turkey problem
1. Don’t feed wild turkeysMost conflicts with turkeys occur in areas where they’re being fed by people. The first step towards resolving conflicts with turkeys is to eliminate sources of food such as direct handouts from people, unsecured garbage, and spilled bird seed. You may consider removing bird feeders (especially in the spring and summer) until the turkeys move on. Remember to also talk to your neighbors to ensure that they are not feeding turkeys either!
It’s easy to scare turkeys away by making noises, popping open an umbrella, throwing tennis balls, or dousing the turkey with water from a hose or squirt gun.
2. Scare away problem turkeysWild turkeys have a “pecking order” of dominance and may view people or pets who act fearful as underlings, chasing them or blocking the entrance to homes or cars. If a wild turkey (or a flock of turkeys) has invaded your yard, driveway, or neighborhood, it’s important that you establish your dominance by hazing the turkey(s). It’s easy to scare turkeys away by making noises (try waving your arms and yelling or blowing a whistle), popping open an umbrella, throwing tennis balls, or dousing the turkey with water from a hose or squirt gun.  A leashed dog may also be effective in scaring a turkey away.
It’s important that all members of your family (including children and the elderly) exhibit their dominance over your neighborhood turkeys through hazing in order to have the desired effect.  Although wild turkeys may look large and intimidating, they are usually timid and scare easily.
During mating season (February-May), male turkeys may venture into neighborhoods looking for females to mate with. They may respond aggressively to reflective surfaces (such as windows, automobile mirrors, or polished car doors), thinking that their reflection is an intruding male turkey. In this case, haze the turkey away and then temporarily cover the reflective surface if possible.
Motion Sprinklers on Amazon.com»
3. Encourage roosting turkeys to move elsewhereWild turkeys usually roost in trees, but in urban areas they are also known to roost on roofs or on decks.The good news is that wild turkeys are cautious birds that are pretty easy to scare away. To break up turkey roosts on decks or roofs, making loud noises or spraying them with a water hose is usually all that’s needed, although sometimes a follow-up treatment might be necessary. You may also use motion-activated devices (such as a Scarecrow Motion-Activated Sprinkler, which will scare turkeys away with a sharp burst of water) or anti-perching devices (such as Birdwire or another type of wire installation that limits or prevents perching on your roof). 4. Protect your garden from turkeys. Most of the crop and garden damage blamed on wild turkeys is actually caused by other animals (such as raccoons, groundhogs, foxes, deer, or squirrels). Still, you can keep wild turkeys from feasting on your garden or shrubs by using a motion-activated scare device (such as a Scarecrow Motion-Activated Sprinkler) or by protecting plants and vegetables with hardware cloth. (Try to avoid the use of netting, which can entrap birds and other animals.)
5. Watch out for turkeys on the roadWild turkeys sometimes forage along the road, so watch for these feathered pedestrians crossing the road without checking for cars. And look carefully for stragglers as these birds travel in groups.  

Reprinted from the Humane Society and Adapted from the book Wild Neighbors 

The timid rabbit occasionally nibbles plants in the garden but usually lives unnoticed on the fringes of our yards
Rabbit damage is almost always the result of their appetite for our plants. They eat flower and vegetable plants in spring and summer and the bark of fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs in the fall and winter.
Mowing and raking yards can disturb rabbit nests. Cats and other animals catch and injure small rabbits. Sometimes people see newly independent young rabbits and think that such small creatures can't possibly get along without their mothers. People often don't know the best thing to do when they find rabbits that appear to need help.
What attracts rabbits to urban areas?
Common problems and solutions

• Rabbits eating plants
• Does that rabbit need help?

Public health and rabbits
Resources
What attracts rabbits to urban areas?There are several species of wild rabbits—most are called cottontail rabbits—who, between them, live across most of North America. Cottontails like to live at the edges of open areas. In fact, they are rarely found in dense forests or open grassland. 
This love of edges means they love our suburbs. Yards, parks, playgrounds, and office parks, often with small natural buffers in between, have lots of edges between small areas of different habitats that rabbits love.   
Common problems and solutions Here today, gone tomorrow is one way to describe rabbits in suburbia. Given the many predators who make meals of rabbits, their populations can rise and fall dramatically over the course of a year. Sometimes, by doing nothing and letting nature take its own course, the homeowner sees the same result as they might from trying to "control" rabbits.  
Rabbits eating plantsFirst things first: Make sure a rabbit is the culprit. Deer eat many of the same things rabbits do and are also common around yards. Twigs browsed by rabbits look neatly clipped but plants browsed by deer appear ragged and torn. You may see the easily recognizable tracks of rabbits in soft soil or snow. And you may see the rabbits themselves—a dead giveaway to their presence—most often near dawn and dusk.
Barriers for flowers and vegetables—A well-constructed fence  is the most effective way to protect plants. Two-foot high chicken wire supported by posts every six to eight feet is strong enough to keep rabbits out. Stake the bottom securely to the ground to prevent rabbits from pushing underneath it.
Movable fence panels can protect the garden right after the first planting, when damage is likely to be most severe, and go in the shed the rest of the year. Some years, you won't need the panels at all, given the ups and downs of rabbit populations. New plantings can be protected individually under plastic jugs that have the bottom cut out. These also serve as mini-greenhouses in spring when nights are still cool. Other protection may need to be provided once the jugs come off.  
Garden Fences on Amazon.com »
Barriers for trees—Commercial tree wrap or plastic tree guards  can keep rabbits from nibbling bark. Cylinders of hardware cloth (stand on their own) or poultry wire (need staking) can work as well. These barriers should be as high as usual snow depth plus eighteen inches. Young trees and saplings are more vulnerable so focus on protecting them.
Rabbits may reach low-hanging branches. A homemade barrier can encircle around them as well. Or prune and leave the trimmings on the ground away from valued trees as a decoy food. Rabbits prefer twigs and buds to the bark of the trunk and will eat these instead if they are easy to reach.
Repellents—In some places, fencing won't be practical or damage will be so slight that a fence isn't cost effective. Then chemical repellents can protect small plots and individual plants. Don't use a repellent on plants that people will eat unless the label specifies it is safe to do so.
Rabbit Repellent on Amazon.com »
Scare Devices—Sometimes, scare tape or balloons might frighten rabbits away from an area. The pinwheels sold to repel moles might provide a look scary to rabbits as well.
Habitat Modification—Remove cover (vine thickets, tall grass, and shrub cover) around gardens and orchards so rabbits don't have escape cover. They will spend less time—and eat less food—where they feel unsafe. Think, however, about the potential negative effects on other species that could benefit from a naturalized back yard.

Does that rabbit need help?Mothers feeds baby rabbits only twice a day—at dawn and dusk. Baby rabbits found alone in a nest are usually not orphans.
If a nest has been disturbed, put it back together and cover the babies with the grass that originally covered them. To check if the mother is coming to care for them, place several lengths of yarn (small branches work, too) in a grid pattern over the nest. If the grid is disturbed after the next dawn or dusk, the mother is still caring for the youngsters.
Baby rabbits leave the nest when they're 3 weeks old and about the size of a chipmunk. If you find a chipmunk-sized but fully-furred rabbit with eyes open, ears erect, and the ability to hop, they are meant to be on their own. As small and helpless as they may look, they are not an orphan and doesn't need your help.
You can prevent harm to baby rabbits by checking your yard carefully for rabbit nests before you mow. Do this especially if you've let the grass get taller than usual. 
Outdoor cats and dogs are a major threat to bunnies. If your pet gets hold of a bunny, a licensed wildlife rehabilitator or veterinarian should see the bunny immediately. And bring the pet indoors immediately. A dog or cat will remember where the nest is and put the other bunnies at risk. 
Also, unfortunately, it's not uncommon for people to abandon pet rabbits outdoors, and domestic rabbits do need our help. Domestic rabbits look a bit different from wild rabbits. Most wild rabbits in The United States are cottontails, who are brown with white tails. Domestic rabbits vary in size from 2 lbs. to over 20 lbs. (though most will be around 5 lbs.). They have ears that stand up, hang down, or are stuck in the middle. And, most notably, their coats come in a wide variety of colors and patterns, from pure albino white to jet black, with plenty of browns and grays in between; their patterns may be striped, spotted, or more unusual.
Public health and rabbitsRabbits can be infected with tularemia, which may be transmitted to people if they eat undercooked, infected meat or handle a sick animal. It's best not to handle any wild animal, if at all possible. Wear gloves if you must handle a wild rabbit. And wash thoroughly afterwards.

Resources» R.M. Lockley's The Private Life of the Rabbit (1975: Avon Books) is an entertaining and readable account that also reminds us there are very few natural histories of rabbits available. 
» Purchase a copy of Wild Neighbors; the go-to guide for useful, humane solutions to conflicts with wildlife